[20 October 2012 ]I am aware that my neurotic tendencies surface just when I am about to head abroad. En route to Sardinia, my mind’s-eye frantically began fanning the smoke signals of a potential holiday disaster. After all, travelling to a destination at the extreme end of ‘off-peak’ could hardly be a great idea.
Sardinia has long been recognised as the sun-kissed central of the world’s competitive and leisure sailing royalty. From June until August, the beaches are buzzing with the financially blessed and beautiful, and its ports are heaving with vessels deemed to be the crème-de-la-crème of the boating world; their owners there to be seen, heard and to size up the competition.
The area is saturated with wind whipped, sun, sand and sea revellers who, once the season is over, rapidly disperse to head to next ‘happening’ harbour. As I hurtled down the highway from Alghero airport, I contemplate how, by visiting in October, I might have turned up long after the party had finished.
The fabulous 24 degree heat that enveloped me as I disembarked was, however, definitely working in Sardinia’s favour. Nonetheless, I would reserve judgement for when we reached our final destination in Golfo Aranci, an hour and a half away by car. As we waited for the final touches to be made to our room at Hotel Gabbiano Azzurro, we were served cappuccinos in a bright and airy lobby that exuded calm and relaxation from every pore of its white washed walls and nautical-themed décor.
The cappuccino was delicious. My friend who is not only Italian, but also an unrepentant coffee snob was nodding fervently, staring deep into the eye of the froth as if the secret to its tastiness lay hidden within its milky depths. I was officially in a good mood. The French windows of our light and spacious rooms opened out onto a ground floor veranda that was a stone’s throw away from the pool and the beachfront.
There was a definitive spirit of peace and relaxation in Sardinia with the cool sea waters lapping against the hulls of the boats docked along the pier. Golfo Aranci However, it wasn’t long before I realised that off-peak did not, by any means, limit the inexhaustible supply of things to do, experience and discover in Golfo Aranci. Less than 20 minutes later I found myself in a mid-sized fishing boat, cutting through the Mare Tirreno at a pace, with the refreshing sea spray invigorating the senses of even the weariest of traveller.
The sunshine and the breath-taking beauty of the Sardinian coastline and its fine, paper white sands had an uncanny resemblance to Jamaica’s world famous beaches. At that very moment, I felt that I had stumbled upon a piece of the Caribbean in the heart of the Mediterranean where the translucent waters dazzled as sun beams danced and glimmered across its glassy surface. Our barefooted fisherman leaned over the edge of the boat and whistled to the waves. I’m calling to the dolphins, he said, sometimes they come.
They didn’t make an appearance that day, unfortunately, but it was nice to know that they were around. Fishermen on his boat Casting anchor just off the coast of Cala Moreta, one inspired passenger sampled the sea by stripping down to his trunks and diving into the crystal waters. After retrieving a shell from the seabed, he climbed back up the railings and reported, through smiling lips, and chattering teeth, that the sea was ‘refreshing’! Tourists return year after year to dip, dive and snorkel and view the coral reefs and sea life below.
In fact the Golfo Aranci Council was hosting, that very week, the In and Out photographic competition and award ceremony for the photographers who captured the most spectacular images of Sardinia’s aquatic life. Add Galleria fotografia concorso In and Out ‘IN and OUT’ photography competition After staring into the cold, dewy eyes of a tuna fish destined for our lunch platter, Franco, the fisherman, pointed out some of the fish farms floating off-shore.
In Italian, broken English, and other passengers chipping-in to translate, Franco proudly, explained that the quality of the Sardinian fish caught in this region was second to none. The hospitable and chummy atmosphere made us forget our wind-pricked, goose flesh, and the on-board aperitif of wine, pecorino cheese and pane carasau flat bread, whet our appetite in readiness for the fishy cuisine that was awaiting on the mainland.
Almost everything we consumed during our lunch at Chiaro di Luna restaurant was locally produced; from the deliciously meaty tonnara, sea bass and sea bream to the Carmonau and Vermentino wines made from local grapes – the granite soils and the easterly sea breeze giving them a flavour unique to the region. Sardinian Seadas – fried cheese is a crispy batter, doused in honey (a little heavy after such a filling meal in my opinion, but nice enough) followed as dessert. With a population of roughly two thousand, Golfo Aranci is technically a village although it has the feel a modern town. Construction works were taking place across many sections of the town, in preparation for a new, low rise building and a yachting marina is set to be completed by 2013.
[photo- Marco Colombo]